Necessary Basic Dog Supplies
Posted by Dog Supplies Advice in Dog Supplies Tips, tags: dog basic equipments, dog care, dog guide, dog supplies, dog supplies adviceNecessary Basic Dog Supplies
I always say that just purchasing a dog doesn’t automatically make you into the dog’s master. This status can be achieved only through concerned living with the animal. Well, let’s get started! When your dog first arrives, it is still a “poor” dog, for it has nothing except its owner. But to feel at ease in your home and to live in a civilized manner, a dog needs a number of things.
A Dog Needs a Name
The first thing a puppy needs is a name. The one it is given at the kennel and that is entered in its papers might not be suit able for everyday use, because the names of all the puppies of a litter have the same initial. This sometimes leads to strange-sounding names. Since you will and should say the dog’s name frequently, it should be a word that is easy to understand and doesn’t sound harsh like a command or a rebuke. Two-syllable words with the vowels a, o, or u are especially good. Donna, Pola, Numa, and Bosco are some examples. If you choose to call your dog Otto, be prepared that not everybody named Otto will be amused. Remember, too, that you may occasionally have to call your dog in a crowd. I don’t know how comfortable you will feel shouting something like “Pocahontas” which seemed like such a clever name when you chose it. Still, don’t be afraid to use your imagination when naming your dog. If I were a dog and my people called me Champ or Cato or Foxy or Waldo, that would suit me just fine.
Of all the things a dog should have, the following are absolutely essential:
- a bed
- a blanket
- two bowls
- a collar
- a leash
- a brush or a comb
Dog accessories like these are available at pet supply stores, or they can be ordered through specialty catalogs. You will find addresses of mail-order businesses in dog magazines.
A Bed
Every dog needs a place to which it can retire and that is always reserved for it. This can be a mattress, an open or cave like basket. a box, or a thick pad. The dog’s bed serves primarily to keep the animal off the cold floor. Whatever kind of bed you choose, it should be large enough for the dog to stretch out, even though dogs usually sleep rolled up in a ball. To be sure it will be large enough, measure a fully grown dog of the breed you have from the tip of its nose to the tip of the tail. If you buy a bed to fit the puppy, you’ll have to buy a bigger one nine months later.
Note: Wicker baskets are not recommended for young dogs that are still at the nibbling and chewing stage, and cave like baskets are available only for small dogs.
An Easy-care Blanket
You have to be able to wash and disinfect a dog’s blanket easily, because it may become infested with fleas. An old woolen blanket is a cheap solution (and quite adequate for the beginning), but better yet is a special dog blanket that not only warms and is soft, but also helps keep the dog dry. Your dealer can show you several brands, including the “Dognapper,” for instance. This is not a cheap blanket, but it is of excellent quality. You can even in a pinch use it directly on the floor of a terrace or balcony, because it insulates so well.
Two Bowls, for the Dog Only
Each dog should have its own bowls-one for food, the other for water, because fresh water must always be available. Over the years we have come to prefer
- a heavy water bowl made of glazed stoneware;
- an enameled food bowl made of solid metal and placed on a nubbly rubber mat where it cannot slide;
- stainless steel bowls are also good. what matters is that;
- the bowls be heavy so the dog cannot play with them;
- they have a slip-proof bottom or are placed on a slip-proof mat. A mat has the added advantage that it keeps the floor from getting messy;
- the bowls should be easy to clean;
- For dogs with long lop ears there are special, cone-shaped bowls that row toward the top and keep the ears from drooping into the food and water. There are also practical small stands with places for both bowls next to each other.
The Collar
The puppy’s first collar can be very plain, because it will soon be outgrown. A collar has two functions:
- It allows you to hold the dog securely either with your hand or with a leash,
- It can adorn the dog,
This means that the collar should, first of all, be strong enough to withstand the pulling force of the dog and, secondly, that its style be in keeping with the dog’s breed and appeal to our sense of beauty. Above all, it should be well-made.
The variety of collars is so great that it is confusing, Most have buckles, which in itself presents a problem. If the collar is set too loose, the dog can slip its head out of it and get off the leash; if it is too tight, the dog is uncomfortable. All this can be avoided if you get
- a choke collar that tightens as needed. But be sure to buy one with a stop that allows the ring to move only to a certain point. If there is no such stop, you could choke your dog to death or the dog might strangle itself on the collar,
- a harness that is worn loosely around the neck and chest. These harnesses look attractive, but they are suitable only for dogs that don’t pull too hard. I’m not speaking here of the special harnesses designed for sled dogs.
A chain or a leather collar? Chain collars are especially convenient because you can carry a second one in your pocket, but the metal does discolor light fur. Most dog owners use leather collars. A collar should be the right style for the dog. A German shepherd dog in a rhinestone collar looks ridiculous, as does a dachshund with a heavy metal collar. There are special collars with badger hair ruffs designed for bull terriers, French bulldogs, and mastiffs; for Swiss mountain dogs there are collars with cow-shaped brass ornaments. But don’t buy an expensive collar until your dog has reached its full size.
The Leash
Whether you buy a short or a long leash depends on personal preference and the size of the dog.
A leash with an automatic rewind mechanism and about 15 feet (5 m) long can serve as both a short and a long leash. There is a lock you can operate with your thumb that lets you set the length. With this you can give the dog a controllable radius of movement or keep it on a very short leash for heeling. The disadvantage is that you have to hold on to a rather large plastic box with a handle. If you drop it, the rewinding mechanism makes the box clatter toward the dog, who is bound to be startled and may bolt. It’s up to the dog’s owner to decide on the width, material, and style of the leash, again taking into account the breed of the dog.
Important: The clip that links the leash to the collar has to hold securely. There are three types of clips:
- a simple spring clip is quite secure, but the leash can be taken off the collar only by exerting considerable pressure with the thumb.
- a scissor-type clip can be opened more quickly and easily, but as the spring gets weaker, it may occasionally open by itself.
- a clip with a safety catch (my personal choice) is easy to open with one hand and will stay attached to the collar even if the spring breaks.
Brush, Comb, and Currycomb
A brush is essential for any dog, no matter what its breed. and every dog loves being brushed properly.
For short-haired breeds, you should get a coarse brush of natural bristles for a first rough brushing ;
- a currycomb of soft plastic or rubber for removing by static electricity the hairs loosened by the first brushing;
- a chamois cloth to shine up the coat after the cleaning.
For long-haired dogs, the procedure is more complicated, and you need
- a normal hairbrush with a strong handle, particularly if the dog is still a puppy and its coat is not yet very thick, Since the puppy will regard the brush as a toy rather than as a tool and will chew on it, it will probably not last longer than a few months. Then you will need
- a coarse-toothed comb;
- a fine-toothed comb;
- a wire brush with rounded corners-so that they will not injure the skin-and with bristles mounted on an elastic rubber cushion;
- a brush made of stiff natural bristles.
I’m opposed to using brushes with artificial bristles because they seem to me too hard and scratchy. The breeder from whom you are buying your puppy will show you the best tools to use with the breed in question.
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